These two MIG welders are ideal hobby welders and can weld using gas or in gasless mode. The SIP Migmate T166 can weld from 0.7 to 6.2mm. For many welding jobs, gasless is fine but for jobs where the weld will be highly visible or where you need to weld very thin, welding with gas is superior.
Having recently bought a SIP MIGMATE 100, and after several hours of trying to MIG weld (well it certainly felt like hours) came to the conclusion I aught to stick to radio and electronics, and give up the welding altogether. THE WELDERS WAREHOUSE - SIP Compatible Mig Welding Torch, Fits most small SIP Mig Welders, SIP Weldmate Mig Welder, SIP Migmate etc. Welding Equipment & Welding Supplies since 1993 Call Us On 02.
What you get with the MIG Welder
Both welders come with the following:
- 0.45 kg roll of flux cored wire for gasless welding.
- a 0.6 & a 0.8mm tips
- 0.6 & a 0.8mm Serrated Guide Roller
- Starter Welding Mask
- Wire Brush with Chipping Hammer
- Mobility Wheel Kit
- Integral 3.0m MIG Torch
- 3.0m Earth Clamp
Setting Up a SIP Migmate Gasless MIG Welder
The welders come pretty much ready to go out of the box in gasless mode.
- There is already a roll of flux cored wire in the welder. Tighten the tension nut so that it offers a small amount of turning friction. Not so tight so as to overload the wire feed motor when it needs to starts feeding the wire.
- Remove the protective plastic wrapper from the roll of wire already in the welder. Use your 3 hands so it dose not unravel.
- Press the roller release lever up and swing it out and let the lower roller fall away downwards.
- Pull the welding wire and feed it into the wire guide tube passing it under the top roller.
- With a little upward pressure from your finger guide the wire into wire feed tube into the MIG torch.
- You may feed it by hand all the way through and out through the torch head.
- Swing the lower roller back into place.
- Pressing and holding the MIG torch trigger should feed the wire continuously.
- On the roller release lever there is a screw for adjusting the roller pressure on the wire.
- Tighten it so as the wire feeds continuously and consistently.
Making Your First Weld
If you have welded before, you know what to do. If you have not, here is a short guide to get you going. Just enough to give you a taste. We are not going to weld anything together, just do some spot welds and run a few beads on a piece of scrap metal. Once you can do these reasonably you will be comfortable attempting more difficult projects.
- Get a piece of scrap metal about 3 to 4 mm thick.
- For MIG welding you need to clean the metal to welded quite thoroughly. Use a flap sander or a wire brush to clean it up to bare metal.
- For metal with oil on it use a cloth and thinners to clean it if the sanding has done a good job.
- Shiny metal is good, rusty and oily metal is bad for MIG welding.
- Attach the earth clamp to the object that is to be welded. (clean bare metal again)
- Set the weld on power setting 3 and the wire speed half way.
- With a side nip pliers nip the flux cored wire off flush with shroud of the MG torch.
- Get your welding gloves on make sure your arms are covered.
Now for a little welding. We are going to do a spot weld first. Position the tip of your MIG welding torch about 2 to 3 mm above the metal and at about 45 degrees. With the mask shield held in place and no one else around press the trigger on your torch. Once you hear the weld start count 'one thousand and one, one thousand and two' and release the trigger.
This gives about a two second weld which is the proper length for a spot weld. It allows the weld to get hot enough to weld properly to the metal. If you burnt a hole in the metal the power was to high. You should see a ring of discoloration around the spot weld in the metal. If you do not get the discoloration ring then raise the power setting and go again.
That cut in the picture was put in after with a band saw so that the strength of this small weld could be demonstrated. Continue to practice these until you consistently get a nice spot weld. Try some very close to the edge. Does it burn through? Lower the power a little. Try it on a thicker piece of metal. Don't forget to clean it properly. Have you to raise the power much? Again, do some spot welds along the edge. Now try to run a 2 centimeter long bead.
Will a little practice you will get the speed that you move the torch right. Are you getting the discoloration all along the weld? If you do not have the discoloration you will not have a strong penetrating weld.
What is MIG Welding?
We have another article in which we explain how MIG welding works which might add a little light to you progression. If you would like to contribute an article to this blog please submit it to us through the contact link. We would love to hear from you!
Sip Migmate 100 Mig Welder Parts
The story of this upgrade starts with a friend of mine acquiring it about 15 years ago (at which point it was already quite old) and after some use real life got in the way and it was abandoned in a barn for about a decade. At this point I needed a welder for a project and asked to borrow it. Now when I got my hands on it and started trying to use it it became immediately obvious these welders were amazingly basic and poorly constructed and so immediately I started modifying it to make it work a little better.
Factory Wire Feed
First off the standard wire feed is terrible, it's made of plastic and if you put enough pressure on to push the wire the mounting for the drive (being plastic) actually bends away and just won't consistently grip. This situation can be improved by changing the plastic torch liner out for a steel one to reduce friction but it's still dodgy. Bracing the wire feed on the outside helps as well.
Here you can see the feed modification. It is simply a bit of scrap metal with a slight bend in it and two holes. The two screws are already in the feed system and hold the parts from the factory so it just picks up on them. This simple mod helps the two feed rollers from deflecting away from each other.
The next issue with the wire feed is the motor is driven off the main transformer output with half wave rectified DC which causes a one main problem, the supply to it isn't consistent. When the arc is struck the voltage at the motor will drop due to the load change on the transformer which tends to make the motor constantly pulse in operation rather than give a consistent feed so it'll join metal but not in a particularly convincing way.
To get round this I added a small regulated 24VDC supply for the motor with the help of information I found on the internet such as the wiring diagram for the welder. The was this works is the control board gets its 24V supply from the black wire on the 4 pin connector. If we disconnect this and instead feed it our own 24VDC the supply shouldn't fluctuate any more. I used the existing supply (the black wire we just intercepted) via a relay (24VAC coil) to turn on the wire feed when the output energises. You should end up with something like this
I've not checked the rating on the factory feed motor but I would guess 10W at most. I used a 24VDC 15W PSU module (specifically a Tracopower 15124C that I found on ebay) and it worked well. I managed to fit it behind the main transformer bolted to the outer casing.
Further to this the motor speed circuit is actually very poorly designed and after a little use can get twitchy and change during use. I didn't get as far as modifying this but further information can be found here :
Or if that should ever go offline also in this PDF :
Earth Lead
Another key usability thing is that these welders have very short leads and the clamp was poor from new and appeared to be a similar thickness to tinfoil and added to that was badly damaged and even rusty and since poor contact causes many issues with consistent welding so I decided to upgrade the cable and clamp to help the situation. For a welder this size you need to be looking at a minimum of 10mm2 cable but this will not allow you to operate at full power consistently (not that this welder is actually capable of that anyway!) 16mm2 would give you plenty of spare capacity.
This gives about a two second weld which is the proper length for a spot weld. It allows the weld to get hot enough to weld properly to the metal. If you burnt a hole in the metal the power was to high. You should see a ring of discoloration around the spot weld in the metal. If you do not get the discoloration ring then raise the power setting and go again.
That cut in the picture was put in after with a band saw so that the strength of this small weld could be demonstrated. Continue to practice these until you consistently get a nice spot weld. Try some very close to the edge. Does it burn through? Lower the power a little. Try it on a thicker piece of metal. Don't forget to clean it properly. Have you to raise the power much? Again, do some spot welds along the edge. Now try to run a 2 centimeter long bead.
Will a little practice you will get the speed that you move the torch right. Are you getting the discoloration all along the weld? If you do not have the discoloration you will not have a strong penetrating weld.
What is MIG Welding?
We have another article in which we explain how MIG welding works which might add a little light to you progression. If you would like to contribute an article to this blog please submit it to us through the contact link. We would love to hear from you!
Sip Migmate 100 Mig Welder Parts
The story of this upgrade starts with a friend of mine acquiring it about 15 years ago (at which point it was already quite old) and after some use real life got in the way and it was abandoned in a barn for about a decade. At this point I needed a welder for a project and asked to borrow it. Now when I got my hands on it and started trying to use it it became immediately obvious these welders were amazingly basic and poorly constructed and so immediately I started modifying it to make it work a little better.
Factory Wire Feed
First off the standard wire feed is terrible, it's made of plastic and if you put enough pressure on to push the wire the mounting for the drive (being plastic) actually bends away and just won't consistently grip. This situation can be improved by changing the plastic torch liner out for a steel one to reduce friction but it's still dodgy. Bracing the wire feed on the outside helps as well.
Here you can see the feed modification. It is simply a bit of scrap metal with a slight bend in it and two holes. The two screws are already in the feed system and hold the parts from the factory so it just picks up on them. This simple mod helps the two feed rollers from deflecting away from each other.
The next issue with the wire feed is the motor is driven off the main transformer output with half wave rectified DC which causes a one main problem, the supply to it isn't consistent. When the arc is struck the voltage at the motor will drop due to the load change on the transformer which tends to make the motor constantly pulse in operation rather than give a consistent feed so it'll join metal but not in a particularly convincing way.
To get round this I added a small regulated 24VDC supply for the motor with the help of information I found on the internet such as the wiring diagram for the welder. The was this works is the control board gets its 24V supply from the black wire on the 4 pin connector. If we disconnect this and instead feed it our own 24VDC the supply shouldn't fluctuate any more. I used the existing supply (the black wire we just intercepted) via a relay (24VAC coil) to turn on the wire feed when the output energises. You should end up with something like this
I've not checked the rating on the factory feed motor but I would guess 10W at most. I used a 24VDC 15W PSU module (specifically a Tracopower 15124C that I found on ebay) and it worked well. I managed to fit it behind the main transformer bolted to the outer casing.
Further to this the motor speed circuit is actually very poorly designed and after a little use can get twitchy and change during use. I didn't get as far as modifying this but further information can be found here :
Or if that should ever go offline also in this PDF :
Earth Lead
Another key usability thing is that these welders have very short leads and the clamp was poor from new and appeared to be a similar thickness to tinfoil and added to that was badly damaged and even rusty and since poor contact causes many issues with consistent welding so I decided to upgrade the cable and clamp to help the situation. For a welder this size you need to be looking at a minimum of 10mm2 cable but this will not allow you to operate at full power consistently (not that this welder is actually capable of that anyway!) 16mm2 would give you plenty of spare capacity.
The clamp itself was just bought off ebay again, they're about £4 each so difficult to go far wrong. You could go for a different style to the normal clamp if you prefer such as a magnetic one. To connect the cable to the stud on the clamp I used a reusable cable lug which uses two small bolts to tighten to the cable, you could buy crimp lugs but crimping them without the correct tools can be hit and miss. I've heard a cold chisel will work but your mileage may vary. I actually used a second reusable cable lug to clamp the new cable onto the transformer outlet inside the welder – not the neatest solution but it worked.
Gas Supply
The standard shielding gas supply on these welders is via a small plastic tube which is intended to be connected to a mini-bottle which sits in two brackets on the back. The brackets aren't actually fixed to the welder so can be easily knocked off. The standard regulator is rubbish and the one I got with the welder was totally seized shut. I bought a like for like replacement initially and this highlighted the limitation here. The bottle is so small and the regulators so poor that the gas flow actually changes during use and rapidly empties entirely. They have no gauge and so the first you know of having no gas is when your welds go horrible. I looked into it and found a good solution – you can buy regulators that adapt a normal gas bottle to this type of hard line.
I looked into getting gas and found that the time of massive rents on bottles is over. In the UK there are a couple networks of suppliers who will give you weld gas with only a bottle deposit (currently £65 for mine) and no ongoing rental charge. Once the bottle is empty you take the bottle back and get a full one and just pay the gas fill cost (about £30 for the bottle I have) I found a supplier of Hobbyweld gas (Noz-Alls Cheltenham – www.weldingdirect.co.uk) and got their 10L bottle, these are pressurised to 137 Bar giving a total of 1370L of gas. This lasts drastically longer. The shop I went to also sold a standard regulator but with a crimped hose and a push fit to suit this welder off the shelf making this very easy for about £20.
Roll Drag
One other problem I had was the tension spring which is supposed to hold the roll under a little tension to prevent overrunning was actually sharp and biting into the reel. I added a large flat washer under the spring to stop this then added a small washer as a shim to prevent it being over-tightened. This provides friction over a large area to avoid this problem and it seems to work well.
Sip Migmate 100 Mig Welder Welders
So once I'd done all of this it worked significantly better and we used it for a few projects to good effect right up until we tried to repair and refit the load bed of a pickup truck which involved welding plates onto chassis rails and various other extensive welding work. After burning through multiple contact tips and a couple shrouds we got to the point where the torch died entirely with the wire welding into the inner workings of it and came to the conclusion it was done for. The torch on these being hard wired into the unit finding a replacement wasn't as simple as a standard euro torch and at this point I wasn't sure it was worth replacing until we actually needed it again. Some time later I bought a new compact R-Tech MIG which by comparison is a revelation and so the old Migmate got thrown into a cupboard for storage with the expectation it would eventually probably be scrapped.
Sip Migmate 100 Mig Welders
Though that's not exactly how the story ends…
